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Thirteen kilometres north-east from Rute on the Co-220 sits the whitewashed village of Alqueria. Like many others villages in the Sierra Subbética it has Moorish origins. However unlike most other towns in the area Alqueria is in a valley. In AD932 the village was indeed on a hill top, overlooking the Sierra with wonderful views southward towards the coast. The scented evening breeze drifted up the cliff side carrying the aroma of honeysuckle and wild gladioli. Fragments of Roman black burnished wear lay scattered around the hillside along with terracotta roof tile. Occupied since Mesolithic times, this was indeed a favoured position.
What occurred during the fateful year of AD932 is not on record. Compelling archaeological evidence suggests that the village underwent a complete but precise dissection and a later reconstruction in the valley below. Local legend suggests that the Caliph Abd-ar-Rahman III ordered the village moved after one of the inhabitants upset the venerable gentleman. A sheep’s bladder, an amphora of olive oil and one of the Caliph’s wives formed the basis of the tale.
Precisely following the original layout, the builders faithfully reconstructed the village including the mirador and castle. The views from the mirador allow for scrutiny of the cliff face. While the village boasts the only castle which could face attack from above making it useless as a piece of military architecture. Since its displacement, the village has expanded to the east, the only direction available.Los Recién Venido or the newcomers are descendants of those who settled the village after its rebuilding. It is they who have the smart villas and disposable wealth. Los Gente del Cerro, the people of the hill are the ancestors of the original inhabitants. Set in their ways, they occupy less grand terraced properties.
This demarcation represents a real division in the village, a source of perpetual antagonism and rivalry. The two factions will take a contrary position on any issue as a matter of principle. All public bodies in Alqueria are equally split making the smallest decision a hotly debated matter.
The wealthiest individual in the village is Señor Fernando Rodriguez an obese foul-mouthed paranoid psychotic. He inherited the olive mill and groves from his father who came into their possession in 1939. He relieved Galeno Matas of them in exchange for a damp, cheerless and claustrophobic cave. Matas, a republican, was so in fear of the Falangists that Rodriguez senior had little problem in making the swap. Now eighty-eight, he is still dodging the Nationalists, taking refuge in his cave. On the 14th of every April he fires a shot in celebration of the Republic's proclamation of 1931. The bullets hit the church gable-end adding to a growing collection of small craters. Our veteran Republican believes the village supports his stand, otherwise why would they leave food for him by the stone cross near his cave?
The older women of the village spend their time cleaning house, tending the church and most importantly gossiping. They believe the town to be divinely blessed. The mysterious appearance of a new pit mark in the church wall every spring must surely be a sign. The de-materialisation of the votive offerings left at the village shrine must be another indication of heavenly approval. These matriarchs not only see the physical and spiritual well-being of the village as their domain, they also burden themselves with the moral common-good.
Alqueria’s senior men folk spend most of the day avoiding the senior women folk. They wander the olive groves and count the leaves on the ancient trees. The highlight of the day is at eight in the evening. With the women safely in church a clandestine beer can be taken at one of two bars. La Casa Devante in the square for the Hill People or the Bar El Golondrina Verde in the Calle Mirador frequented by the Newcomers.
Young men of the village spend their time in pursuit of the young ladies. They in turn practice the art of being coy, unconvincing in most cases. The castle and mirador are
their preserve. Old men keep away for fear of reviving old stirrings which could lead to promises over reaching their capabilities. Girlish squeals coupled with elevated male testosterone levels are indicative of a community preparing to renew itself.
So the daily life of Alqueria continues amidst the perpetual sniping of the two factions. The non-partisan of the village include Blyth Gruntmore the resident Englishman, satellite dish and wholesale supplies of HP Sauce confirm his nationality. Fernando Rodriguez persists with his applications for approval from the Baena DenominaciĂłn de Origen for his olive oil production. However the Olive Fruit Fly once more causes premature oxidization of the crop. Old Man Matas continues to dodge non-existent Falangists, while hitting the Nationalists when and where his meagre arsenal will allow.
The searing AndalucĂan sun mercilessly roasts the windless valley, baking Alqueria and its residents. Tempers shorten and thirst levels increase, in short all the prerequisites for turmoil, mischief and rebellion.
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